Q-1 - I want to start recycling Dow Aircraft Deicing Fluid # 146 ARÓ down at our local airport. It's for deicing the windshields and wings of aircraft..I think its a "diethylene Glycol" based formula...can/should I take the recycling job ??
A-1 - NO !!...don't even consider it..the liability issue is intense...every year you hear of a disaster caused by similar topics. There is a whole different agency (F.A.A.) and they will be on you like a cheap suit...stay on the ground or in the the water...but don't go in the air with your recycling service...
Q-2 - I want to start recycling "Dow Therm SR-1"...its being used in a cooling tower..the information I have says that it's approximately 95% ethylene glycol with some dipotassium phosphate and water...can/should I take the recycling job ?? and how do I treat it??
A-2 - Yes !!...take the job...jobs like that are usually "money runs" ...you will have to figure out the logistics though (loop into the system..figure out gallonage...flow rate o f the ARU should be figured low..2 GPM ??...how long to run the fluid so that it passes through the ARU 1 1/2 times...or....do it a barrel at a time??) ARU fortifier works great in "Dow Therm SR-1"...you probably won't have to adjust freeze point or pH because they do not dilute it when in use..proper freeze point is not an issue here (unless somehow they diluted it..at which point add EG full strength or auto antifreeze) proper pH should be between 9.5 and 11.5 (use potassium hydroxide instead of sodium hyd roxide, when possible to bring up pH if the ARU fortifier doesnŐt bring it up to around 10)
Q-3 - I have a deal cooking to get some pure ethylene glycol cheap..can I use it instead of virgin antifreeze to adjust the freeze point ??
A-3 - Yes...virgin antifreeze is 93.5% to 97% pure ethylene glycol anyway...so go ahead..just make sure that its not contaminated..check pH , freeze point and the overall appearance..and ask questions about what it was originally used for...if you are not sure of "pure"...call in before you make the purchase...
Q-4 - Chlorides ?!!?..I keep hearing about chlorides..are there any chlorides in the ARU fortifier ??
A-4 - Chlorides occur in water - not fortifier, and there are no chlorides in the ARU fortifier. If the antifreeze was diluted with distilled water (as it was supposed to be) there won't be any chlorides. A lot of city water has chlorides in it, but if your pH is between 9 and 11 chlorides won't hurt anything anyway..sodium hydroxide also has no chlorides..
Q-5 - What happens if I use too much of Hi-Tech's anti-foam concentrate ??
A-5 - With too much anti-foam concentrate the fluid will get gummy (its the silicone in the formula that causes this)..start out with 2 oz. then work up 1 oz. at a time
Q-6 - Whats the difference between high silicate and low silicate antifreeze ?? Who makes it ?? How do I tell the difference ??
A-6 - Low silicate antifreeze has 200 ppm or less, regular (high silicate) has more than 200 ppm. Most of what you run into is low silicate...Prestone and Shell zone both make a high silicate antifreeze (Prestone 1500 ppm??) ..you will usually have to ask for high silicate. There is a machine that tests for silicate content but it costs approx. $200,000.00...a little silicate is good because it works as an inhibitor...too much silicate can cause silica-gel (green go)...ARU fortifier contains no silicate..
Q-7 - Electrolysis ?!!?..I keep hearing about electrolysis...When does it occur ?? What causes it ?? How is it dealt with ??
A-7 - Electrolysis occurs when negative and
positive poles are set up. Mainly due to dissimilar metals in the
system. Electrolysis can occur with as little as 1000 ppm of
conductivity. The more solids dissolved ..the more current you
have...the higher the conductivity will be..the more likely
electrolysis will occur. ARU fortifier contains nitrite which
picks up free oxygen to prevent oxidation then becomes nitrate
which forms a monomolecular film on metallic surfaces to inhibit
electrolysis. Most heavy equipment will require additional
protection..either S.C.A.'s ( Supplementary Coolant Additives)
and/or treated coolant filters regardless of whether you are
running virgin or recycled antifreeze to insure against
electrolysis...if you use demineralized water only, there is
little to no chance of electroylsis...
Q-8 - How much fortifier do
I have to add to a 55 gallon barrel to hit spec ?? (9 to
11 pH)
A-8 - You will never have to add more than 32 oz. of ARU
Fortifier to a 55 gallon drum to properly inhibit (unless there
is severe salt, sodium,
chloride content - then double the amount minimum - the only time
this should be an issue, is when you have prior knowledge of such
contamination - in which case you had better call in before you
tackle that job - we may need a sample 1st.)..
O.K. lets say you added 32 oz. and you can't get above 8.7 on the
pH meter (make sure from time to time that you are getting
accurate readings from your meter)..
O.K...you know that your pH meter isn't lying to you..what
happened in this case is that the acidic nature of that
particular batch has so much acid that the fortifier does not
have enough acid neutralizer to counteract it..............NaOH
(sodium hydroxide) is a very powerful acid neutralizer (don't get
any on you) and it doesn't take a whole lot to bring up the
pH...keeping in mind that no two batches of antifreeze are
exactly the same...start off with 1 to 2 oz....granular or liquid
sodium hydroxide can be purchased from a local chemical supply
house...whether granual or liquid you must mix it with antifreeze
and water 2 to 3 oz at a time..then it must be stirred and
re-checked with your pH meter..work up 1 oz. at a time from
there..when you hit 9 on your pH meter you are at spec..(but 9.5
to 10.0 is a better mix)..then pick up your money, get referrals
from your customer
("Hey Bob, do you know anyone else that wants to stay legal
and save money ??")....and go do it again..WARNING !!! never
use sodium hydroxide INSTEAD of fortifier..use it WITH your
fortifier ONLY as a last resort...(after you have used 32oz of
fortifier)...if you do get sodium hydroxide on you it attacks the
natural oils in your skin and burns and iches like hell...wash
off with soap and water..then go get some skin lotion (Jergens,
aloe vera, your wife will probably have something like this) rub
it in ..use a lot of it ..and sooner or later it will get
better...
Q-9 - Is there any quick-and-inexpensive
phosphates field tests. Are there any phosphate-hungry flocs?
A-9 - There is a
Phosphate kit available from Taylor, phone # 800-837-8548 for
around $134.00, it's their model #K1103 ...we can cook you up
some "phosphate-hungry-floc", but it's expensive around
$30.00 per gal. your cost..4 gal per case...and you will have to
use 1/4 gal. per 55 gal. drum...our fortifier contains no
phosphates..
Q-10 - I have just been reading some literature on
inhibitors used in various glycols. I understand borates and/or
phosphates are used as buffers but I don't know what specific
protection is offered by other additives such as molybdates or
nitrates and nitrites. Does the glycol by itself offer any rust
or corrosion protections? What are the standard inhibitors and
what do they do?
Q-10 - Nitrites are used as oxygen scavangers
(anti-oxidation compounds)that pick up free oxygen to inhibit
rust (rust happens when oxygen comes in contact with metal)..once
nitrites pick up the free oxygen they then become
nitrates...nitrates and molybdates both form a mono-molecular
film on the metal surfaces to protect against rust and
electrolysis...the yellow metal inhibitors are protected by other
chemicals that are almost to long to spell....anyway glycol does
not offer any rust or corrosion protections...in fact it's
corrosive by nature...which is why you need the fortifier in the
first place...we are currently working on other automotive,
equipment and cooling tower products...but its too early to alert
the media on any of it..we will let the whole world know when its
ready...I hope this answers some of your questions...feel free to
call 800-553-0509 anytime...
Q-11 - Do we have anything on HD diesel truck
formulations yet? How about HVAC gylcol-based systems? Also
wanted to get samples of the "cool track strips" and
any associated pamphlets.
A-11 - Yes we have developed a heavier duty
formula...it has some extra inhibitors in it..but those who use
S.C.A's will need to keep doing so..as far as the
Heating-Ventilation-Air Conditioning industry the formula that
you have is fine...you will have to figure out the logistics
(barrell at a time ??...or ...loop into the system??)...if you
want some samples of COOL-TRACK STRIPS you will need to contact
Environmental Test Systems the phone # is 800-452-0215...
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